August 15, 2015
Forchette - the piece of the glove pattern that constitutes the inside wall on the finger stalls. On every glove I examined from pre-1700, it was noted that the forchette was one piece and not two, as found on gloves after the 1700's.
First demo - I have completed an experiment comparing the 'V' shaped forchette to the 'U' shaped forchette. Just based upon the engineering aspects I suspected the U shaped would have extra material creating a bulge. The pictures below depict the forchettes after they were sewn into a glove. I purposely used different color leathers for clarity in examination. The forchette between the pointer and the index finger is the V shaped forchette. The forchette between the index and the ring finger represents the U shaped forchette. I have presented the glove with both closed and open fingers. The result demonstrates that both will successfully provide walls for the finger stalls, but I was correct. The U shaped forchette creates a bulge when the fingers are both closed and open. What this means to the glover depends on what the glover wants to achieve. If you want a neat appearance when the glove is both open and closed, I recommend you use the V shaped forchette. If you do not mind that bulge or have very large hands that when closed in a fist and flexed could possibly take up the extra material, then use the U shaped forchette.
Round Stitch - a stitch that is also called a whip stitch for the needle carries the thread over the top of the seam and through the other side.
Prix Stitch - a stitch that is also called a running stitch for the needle carries the thread in and out of the leather running parallel to the seam.
Note: Always use waxed linen thread on leather if you have it available.
Second demo - Also represented on this glove 'sampler' are the differences between the 'round' stitch and the 'prix' stitch on a heavier leather. If you examine the pinky finger and the ring finger of this glove, you will notice there is a slight buckle in the seam on the pinky finger. This is the result of the use of the round stitch. If you examine the seam on the pinky side of the ring finger, you will notice the seam is very even. This side was sewn using the prix stitch. Therefore, it is recommended that you use the prix stitch when sewing heavier leathers together for glove use.
Forchette - the piece of the glove pattern that constitutes the inside wall on the finger stalls. On every glove I examined from pre-1700, it was noted that the forchette was one piece and not two, as found on gloves after the 1700's.
First demo - I have completed an experiment comparing the 'V' shaped forchette to the 'U' shaped forchette. Just based upon the engineering aspects I suspected the U shaped would have extra material creating a bulge. The pictures below depict the forchettes after they were sewn into a glove. I purposely used different color leathers for clarity in examination. The forchette between the pointer and the index finger is the V shaped forchette. The forchette between the index and the ring finger represents the U shaped forchette. I have presented the glove with both closed and open fingers. The result demonstrates that both will successfully provide walls for the finger stalls, but I was correct. The U shaped forchette creates a bulge when the fingers are both closed and open. What this means to the glover depends on what the glover wants to achieve. If you want a neat appearance when the glove is both open and closed, I recommend you use the V shaped forchette. If you do not mind that bulge or have very large hands that when closed in a fist and flexed could possibly take up the extra material, then use the U shaped forchette.
Round Stitch - a stitch that is also called a whip stitch for the needle carries the thread over the top of the seam and through the other side.
Prix Stitch - a stitch that is also called a running stitch for the needle carries the thread in and out of the leather running parallel to the seam.
Note: Always use waxed linen thread on leather if you have it available.
Second demo - Also represented on this glove 'sampler' are the differences between the 'round' stitch and the 'prix' stitch on a heavier leather. If you examine the pinky finger and the ring finger of this glove, you will notice there is a slight buckle in the seam on the pinky finger. This is the result of the use of the round stitch. If you examine the seam on the pinky side of the ring finger, you will notice the seam is very even. This side was sewn using the prix stitch. Therefore, it is recommended that you use the prix stitch when sewing heavier leathers together for glove use.